Edward Enninful Sounds Alarm on Diversity in Fashion Industry

Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has raised concerns about a potential regression in the fashion industry regarding diversity. During an appearance on BBC Radio 4’s programme *Radical with Amol Rajan*, he highlighted that the industry is witnessing a resurgence of super-thin, European beauty standards as the prevailing norm. He stated, “Anti-woke” and anti-diversity sentiment is “having a moment,” suggesting a troubling shift back towards a narrow representation of beauty.

Enninful, who departed from British Vogue in 2023, recently launched a new media platform called EE72, named after his birth year, 1972. The inaugural quarterly print edition emphasizes inclusivity, featuring women over 50, with Julia Roberts, aged 57, gracing the cover. Enninful expressed that this was “the perfect time” to re-enter the fashion world, which he described as “in flux” and in need of significant improvement regarding representation.

Born in Ghana and arriving in London as an asylum seeker, Enninful’s journey in the fashion industry is notable. He became the fashion director of i-D magazine at just 18 years old before making history as the first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue. During his tenure, he aimed to reflect “the world we live in today” and enhance representation across the board.

When asked whether he perceived an “anti-woke moment” in society, Enninful concurred. He remarked, “Woke is a dirty word,” and noted the current political climate, wherein anything outside the conventional norms faces criticism. This sentiment, he argues, poses a risk to the diversity progress made in recent years.

Enninful also addressed speculation surrounding his relationship with Dame Anna Wintour, who is stepping down as editor-in-chief of American Vogue after a remarkable 37 years. He dismissed rumors of a falling out, explaining that his departure from British Vogue was a planned decision. “When I took the job, I gave myself five years and I did six. Anna asked me to give them a year’s notice so they could find my replacement, who turned out to be Chioma Nnadi,” he clarified. He described Wintour as “very supportive,” asserting that they remain in close contact.

In a recent discussion about an American Eagle campaign featuring actress Sydney Sweeney, Enninful weighed in on the controversy surrounding the tagline “Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.” The phrase drew criticism for potentially implying a racially exclusive beauty standard. Enninful commented, “I thought people really read into it probably deeper than I would have… But then on the other hand, I guess if you have a blonde woman sitting there talking about her jeans, it will trigger some people.” He concluded that the varied responses to the campaign reflect a divided population on issues of representation and beauty standards.

As the fashion industry continues to navigate these complexities, Enninful’s insights highlight the essential conversations around diversity and inclusion. His commitment to fostering a more representative landscape remains a pivotal aspect of his mission, as he seeks to challenge the status quo and advocate for broader representation in fashion.