Science
Watchmakers Turn to Meteorites for Unique Timepieces
Watchmakers are embracing the extraordinary by incorporating fragments of meteorites into their designs. This trend highlights a creative shift in the luxury watch industry, where traditional materials are being replaced by pieces of the cosmos.
Meteorites become available on Earth as they enter the atmosphere, with around 44 tonnes reportedly falling each year, according to NASA. However, the majority disintegrate before reaching the ground. Those that survive are classified as meteorites, and only a handful possess the characteristics suitable for crafting watches. The most commonly used sources are the Gibeon meteorite, discovered in Namibia in 1838, and the Muonionalusta, found on the border of Sweden and Finland in 1906.
The rarity and allure of these materials have given rise to a competitive market. In July 2023, a meteorite sold for $5 million at an auction in New York, though its sale has since sparked controversy over allegations of illegal smuggling from Nigeria.
To create visually striking dials, watchmakers slice and treat meteorites to reveal their unique Widmanstätten patterns—a series of angular, crisscross designs formed by nickel-iron crystals. This technique transforms the raw material into a captivating feature that appeals to collectors.
Luxury Brands Lead the Charge
The incorporation of meteorites into watch designs has gained traction over the past decade, driven by evolving consumer tastes and advancements in manufacturing techniques. Major brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Zenith have introduced limited-edition models featuring meteorite dials. Rolex recently unveiled two new meteorite-dial Daytona models, each priced around £40,000, with some fetching nearly double that on the second-hand market.
In contrast, independent brands have shown a willingness to explore the meteorite’s creative potential. Toledano & Chan, founded during the pandemic between Hong Kong and New York City, recently launched a version of its popular B/1.2 watch that incorporates meteorite not just in the dial, but also in the case and buckle. The combination of the jagged patterns with the watch’s angular design, inspired by New York’s Brutalist architecture, creates a striking visual effect.
Innovative Alternatives and Challenges
While the aesthetics of meteorites are appealing, their practical applications can be limited. The texture and appearance, although distinctive, risk becoming commonplace as more brands adopt the material. For example, Bremont recently introduced the Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey. Initially thought to feature a meteorite dial, testing revealed that the material was too brittle. Instead, the brand opted to replicate the meteorite texture using titanium, which is better suited for high-performance applications.
The trend of integrating meteorites into luxury watches reflects a growing fascination with the cosmos and its materials. As brands continue to push the boundaries of creativity, the allure of these ancient space rocks may well redefine the landscape of horology, offering a unique connection between the Earth and the stars.
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