Yamagata Declares Itself Japan’s Ramen Capital with Bold Claim

Yamagata, a city in northeastern Japan, has firmly positioned itself as the country’s ramen capital, reclaiming the title from Niigata after a concerted effort to elevate its ramen culture. The city boasts approximately 230 ramen establishments, each contributing to a vibrant culinary scene that emphasizes the importance of this beloved noodle dish in daily life.

At the heart of this ramen renaissance is Men Endo, a local favorite situated on a quiet suburban street. Here, bowls of steaming noodles are devoured with enthusiasm, creating an atmosphere filled with the sounds of slurping and satisfied conversations. On a chilly afternoon, the wait for a seat at Men Endo is minimal, a testament to its popularity. Diners can choose from a variety of options, including traditional shoyu ramen and the innovative maji soba, a dish that invites patrons to mix toppings and sauce with noodles.

According to Osamu Higuchi, assistant manager in Yamagata’s brand strategy section, the city’s commitment to ramen is evident in its social fabric. “People here don’t ask each other where they want to go for dinner, but which ramen restaurant to go to,” he stated. This dedication to dining at ramen shops rather than preparing meals at home has fortified Yamagata’s reputation, especially as households spent an average of ¥22,389 (approximately £106) on ramen last year, far surpassing Niigata’s ¥16,292.

The city’s title as ramen capital is not merely a matter of pride; it reflects a significant cultural shift. Yamagata’s ramen scene regained momentum after losing the title to Niigata in 2021, a surprise to many in the local community. Higuchi noted, “When Niigata won it was a huge shock… to be honest, it hurt our feelings.” With a government announcement for the next ranking set for early February 2025, local officials and ramen shop owners are optimistic about reclaiming their status.

Despite the enthusiasm surrounding ramen consumption, health implications have been noted. A study conducted by Yamagata University examined almost 7,000 individuals aged 40 and above, revealing that those who consume ramen three or more times each week face a mortality risk 1.52 times higher than those who eat it less frequently. The study, published in the Journal of Nutrition, Health and Aging, cautioned that while frequent ramen consumption presents potential health risks, it does not definitively indicate danger, as those at risk often have other lifestyle habits that contribute to their health status.

Higuchi himself admits to enjoying ramen excessively, having consumed 225 bowls in just one year. “I’ve been trying not to drink all of the soup, but it’s very moreish,” he acknowledged, emphasizing the effort chefs put into crafting their flavorful broths. On average, households in Yamagata are estimated to spend about ¥2,000 monthly on ramen, which many residents consider a reasonable expense for such a cherished part of their culture.

Ramen’s deep roots in Japanese society began after the Second World War, when returning soldiers brought back fond memories of the dish from their time in China. Ramen critic Rikiya Yamaji noted that Yamagata has excelled in adapting this originally foreign dish to align with Japanese tastes. “A distinctive feature of Japanese food culture is its ability to ‘localize’ dishes introduced from overseas,” he explained. Yamaji, who enjoys around 30 bowls of ramen each month, highlighted that ramen has evolved from a cheap meal to one that places greater emphasis on quality and creative ingredients.

The evolution of ramen in Yamagata can be traced back to the aftermath of the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, which devastated Tokyo. Many ramen chefs relocated to Yamagata, sharing their culinary expertise with local residents. As the city grew colder in winter, the demand for warm, comforting bowls of ramen surged, eventually leading to a cultural shift where ramen became a staple for both everyday meals and special occasions.

In response to losing its title, Yamagata’s ramen shop owners have come together to form an organization aimed at promoting the city as the “ramen kingdom.” Higuchi expressed confidence in the upcoming rankings, stating, “If our ramen businesses do well, then so does the local economy – farmers and soy sauce manufacturers, even the companies that produce hot towels for restaurants.”

As Yamagata continues to embrace its identity as a ramen capital, the local economy, culture, and community spirit remain intertwined. It is a city that not only celebrates its culinary heritage but also looks forward to a future where ramen continues to hold a cherished place in the hearts and bowls of its residents.